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Gastronomy
DIJON CAPITAL OF
BURGUNDY
Because Côte d'Orient was too long, the name of Côte-d'Or
was definitively adopted in 1790. Dijon is its prefecture
and everything is in its image: full of spiced savours. Its
gastronomic products glitter as the colours of the roofs.
Statements and ochre as its mustard, for example ,
naming of which " mustard of Dijon ", protected
by the decree of July 10, 1937, does not justify the origin
of its soil, but a manufacturing process. It is still the
East that you find with the savours of cinnamon, clove or
green aniseed of its gingerbread, fabricated with some wheaten
flour and some heather or locust tree honey. Imported of Asia
by the Crusaders, the gingerbread is produced in real pavements
of health of 6 kilos, sold by cutting in numerous dijonnais
shops. You can also test it in the form of gimblettes, sorts
of crisp with almonds, or in nonnet, little round soft bread,
filled with jam.... For the aperitif, sweet flavours become
fruitier. Extracted from cassissiers cultivated near, on the
High Coasts, the cream of black currant of Dijon would know
how to be fabricated somewhere else only in the city (orders
of 1923 and of 1976). Mixed with the aligoté of Burgundy,
it becomes the Kir, famous in all France. Otherwise invented,
at least put fashionably by the canon Kir (18761968), mayor
of Dijon during 22 years, it is today the object of a deposited
trademark.
" The gingerbread of Dijon gets perfectly married with
orange ice-cream. The association of these two products can
be of used as a base for the preparation of delicious mille
feuilles that one will decorate with grapes, bald and caramelized.
"
L’Auxerrois
Of Burgundy naming and proud of being it, the vineyard of
Auxerrois is spread out over 1200 hilly hectares and sometimes
even restless, of the city of Auxerre with picturesque villages,
such Irancy with its speeds of Roman theatres, Chitry, Charentenay,
Holy - Camille Escolives, Jussy, Coulanges-la-Vineuse or Saint-Bris-le-Vineux
whether they arise from aligoté, sauvignon vines and
especially of the chardonnay, white wines are renowned for
their coolness. The red wines, fine and of good nurse, notably
those of Irancy, are produced essentially on the base of black
pinot, or sometimes, with a vine which found its last Burgundian
refuge here: the césar.
The soil of Auxerrois is hence convenient to foods of marked
tastes. Next to its well-built wines pushes the truffle of
Burgundy (tuber incinatum), with the crunchy flesh, the aromas
and the powerful savours of hazelnut. Consume it fresh, from
September to January. Producers even propose direct selling.
Also, the mumbles cherry, savour of which is at the same time
sweet and bitter, shows itself in a well-balanced way only
in this region. In the shape of heart, a deep red, the cherry
mumbles is crunchy and delicious.
Tonnerrois
With its sharp hillsides, exposed southward and crossed by
Armançon ,
the vineyard of Tonnerrois spreads out around Tonnerre, Epineuil
and Molosmes nearly over 150 hectares. Black Pinot and chardonnay
produce there wines of regional, pleasant naming, well typified
and provided with a brilliant colour. Epineuil's wine is rightly
named : Bourgogne Epineuil. In red, it is light dress, delicately
selected and of a great elegance; its mouth is balanced, fresh,
as all the wines of the Yonne, of a pleasant texture and of
a good length. The Burgundy version Epineuil rosé is
consumed more quickly, that is from the first year. Also,
Burgundy Blancs ville. But I would go to Tonnerre and of Molosmes,
of a good liveliness and rich aromas are consumed in their
youth, even until two or three years of ageing. You can find
them in the vault of Fontenilles, founded by a grouping of
producers, on the Marguerite place. Burgundy in Tonnerre (Vault
of Fontenilles, Té1.03 86 55 06 33), or at several
independent wine growers.
Puisaye
Among all the farms which occupy the hilly and green landscape
of Puisaye, someone went, since ten years, into the craft
production of the capon of Puisaye (castrated cock) exclusively
reserved for the holidays of Christmas. Raised freely during
six months, the animal is then filled up, a month lasting,
with corn and milk. Its flesh is fat and smooth. Goats and
ewe do not compose the traditional cattle of Puisaye; some
farms raise them however and make very flavourful half--dry
or dry, fresh cheeses, nature, in spices or in pepper. The
breeders commercialize them either at home, or on markets,
notably on Toucy’se.
Others , with a real concern of gustative quality, fabricate
a rather dry and slightly acid cider, or sell their apples
to be crisp: exulted, steady and very crispy, the winter banana,
the grey rennet apple of Canada, the queen of rennet apples,
the rennet apple tramp, the orange-coloured cox, the calville,
or the beautiful yellow, very fragrant flower. But the campaign
of Puisaye is also strewed with numerous ponds rich in carps,
pikes, trenches... and the forest abounds in prey that one
finds at the right place on the cards of the restaurants of
the region. "Here are the doors of the great regions
abounding in prey. I love these wet paths of walnuts... "Marc
Meneau.
The Country of Othe
and Jovinien
The green valleys of the Country of Othe are strewed with
numerous kinds of apple trees intended for the production
of cider. With ancient names as Avrolles, Bottom of gosling,
Loard, Nose of cat, flat Nose, Sebin or Verolot, apples are
naturally sour and the cider which arises from tem, varying
from pale yellow to the golden yellow, offer savours combining
slightly acid and sweet . In the South of the country of Othe,
on
the edges of the Yonne, in Jovinien, you will discover the
capital of the snail, Bassou, where we prepares with the fine
butter, for two hundred years, the real snail of Burgundy
in the spiral and spherical shell with the yellow brown colour
. The flesh is ashed, tight and elastic. Snail of Burgundy
is a commercial naming and not a label of origin; however
the harvest is officially regulated by the law of May 12,
1979. Pay Attention for imitations.... More in the East, in
the low valley of Armance delicious cheeses with the cow's
milk are produced, with soft dough and the washed crust of
Saint Florentine and Soumaintrain. Both have a pronounced
and raised taste, but their colours differ. Saint Florentine
is cream coloured, while Soumaintrain is " yellow honey
". One can sample them with the wines of the same soil,
those of Jovinien of Burgundy Saint Jacques coast naming.
Stemming from the vine black pinot, this wine, red or grey
(slightly rosé), presents fruity notes (black currant,
raspberry). The red is a wine of short stocking (4 - 5 years
in the beautiful years), whereas grey is consumed fresh in
the year of production.
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